Tired of Skincare Products Giving You Temporary Results? Master how to fix it…
How often does your holy grail skincare product finds its place in a stash even though you were vouching by it just weeks ago?
This happens even with skincare products formulated with effective ingredients present in clinically proven concentrations- you start feeling the results have reached a stagnant point.
Furthermore, the results with your skincare product seem temporary.
Much worse scenario – the skincare product you once vouched for and never got tired of writing reviews over it seems no longer for your skin type and concerns.
Earlier even I used to be highly impatient with skincare products and pretty quick to switch to new ones displayed in beauty counters.
Ever since the science of skincare became my passion, my approach towards skincare products giving temporary results changed.
To understand why skincare products give temporary results let’s first delve into science of skincare.
Before you use any skincare product, you need to equip yourself with an understanding of your skin and correlate the product’s role in your skincare.
Therefore, here’s something very important you should know about your skin:
Solid form of our skin lipids is what protects skin from losing its moisture content. Serums and even moisturizers we use have liquids (solvents) that cause fluidity in solid oily layer of skin. (lipid layer)
This temporarily induced fluidity helps the actives present in serums and, moisturizers to enter the skin to show their activity rather than staying on the top of skin.
Skin Actives are ingredients that show activity on skin: Exfoliating acids(lactic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, madelic acid), Niacinamide, Retinols and, Extracts
As much as I love actives showing their action on the skin, I am wary of the cons. The biggest con that’s likely to happen is that our favorite serum or moisturizer stops working with time.
The skincare product for which you have spend thousands of bucks makes you feel that you have wasted your money.
The reason why even thoughtfully formulated skincare products stop showing results: The loss of Ceramides.
The loss of Ceramides increases moisture loss. And a dehydrated skin either turns very sensitive to actives or stops responding to them.
Sensitivity to actives triggers inflammatory responses such as acne, pesky spots or red blotches
Why specifically ceramides?
Making of ceramides by skin needs proper balanced skin pH. When skin pH falters the recovery of ceramides is also stalled. Furthermore, the skin is able to recover Ceramides only after gaining back its lost cholesterol and other fatty acids.
In simple words, you need to support and assist skin in gaining back its lost Ceramides.
How to gain back lost Ceramides from Skin:
Applying skincare products that have ingredients that resemble skin lipids help in replenishing the skin.
The google’s top picks for getting the goodness of ceramides and skin lipds are:
CERAVE’s PM Face Moisturizer for Nighttime Use
Cerave’s Ultra-Light Face Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30
FIRST AID BEAUTY Ultra Repair Cream
The downside of using moisturizers having ceramides and cholesterol:
But, the problem with ceramide and cholesterol containing moisturizers is that they are aimed at dry skin people with little or no-breakout issues.
Therefore, you tend to find more than 1 pore clogging ingredient within the list.
For instances, the Glyceryl Stearate SE found 3rd in ingredients list of Cerave’s Ultra-Light Face Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 is a potential comedogenic ingredient. (Pore clogging)
You can check the number of comedogenic ingredients in each of the above three moisturizers on this site: http://www.cosdna.com
Not just pore clogging but they also feel heavy on the skin making them highly unsuitable for people living in hot&humid areas and also to those with normal-oily skintype.
How to meet the needs of skin for Cermides during Acne treatments:
Your skin needs ceramides if you are using acne treatments that dry out your skin. In such cases, you can opt for one of the above three ceramide containing light weight moisturizers provided you make sure the ingredients’ list suits your skin type.
In case you fear increased greasiness or breakouts with moisturizers having cholesterol and ceramides then below mentioned are two ways which works for even oily skin beauties.
Not just oily but basically any skin type that uses serums and other skincare products.
- Home Remedy
- Make your skin replenish its Ceramide stores by applying this magic essence (scroll down to read)
1)Home Remedy: Although this simple DIY was written for winter acne remedy, it helps in making your skincare products work again for your skin.
2) Replenish your skin’s Ceramides by applying this magic essence:
I formulated this magic essence in a way that each and every ingredient present in it caters to the skin’s needs. Here, I present to you the magic essence – Beauty Spring’s Skin luminous Gel Essence– that’s going to naturally boost your skin’s Ceramides content.
My best selling Handcrafted Gel Essence devoid of silicones and oils. Customized for reviving dull skin
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Beauty Spring’s Skin luminous Gel Essence has clinically proven effective concentration of Vitamin B3- 4%. It works
- supports and assists the skin to naturally produce ceramides (loss of ceramides in skin makes it dry and also acne prone)
- by enhancing the skin’s radiance
- reverses sun damage and tan
- reduces excess oil production by oil factories of skin
- calms active acne
- reduces the frequency of acne breakouts
Amino Sugars: This fabulous group of molecules derived from nature stimulates skin to produce its own moisturizing molecules- Hyaluronic acid. In our essence, we have combined amino sugars with Vitamin B3 to enhance the brightening and luminosity of the skin.
Beta-Glucan: It is a polysaccharide that protects the skin barrier, prevents water loss, increases moisture level of skin, protects and repair damaged skin, and increases collagen (skin protein) production for healing acne scars.
Sodium Hyaluronate: Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our skin, joints and eyes. This molecule can absorb water and hydrate your skin. It helps in having a plump look. Also acts as anti oxidant. So using our essence infused with hyaluronic acid provides the skin the needed moisture boost.
Sea-Buckthorn Extract: Countless studies have proven the efficacy of sea buckthorn in balancing the skin’s oiliness. It also counteracts inflammation due to acne. Most importantly, it even aids in reducing pigmentation.
Royal Jelly: Royal Jelly is a honey bee secretion fed by worker bees to honey larvae and queen bees for nourishment. In skincare industry ,this royal jelly is considered as fountain of youth for skin.
Directions for Use: Cleanse your face with a pH balanced cleanser and apply the gel on slightly damp face if your skin is of dry skin type. For oily skin, apply on clean and dry face. Use twice or thrice a day.
Remember to cleanse and exfoliate your oily areas of your face before using the Gel Essence. This avoids any film forming due to the beta glucans present in the Gel Essence.
For consultation on skincare reach me out at lubna.khatoon@outlook.com
Blemish Healing, Skin Brightening Face Mask – Acne, Open pores and Blackheads
Recently, I came across a skincare brand, Brown and Coconut. Impressed by the brand name and the relatable story of the founders Letisha & Zeena Brown, I started checking all their products.
Needless to say, I was pretty impressed with their skincare line. What caught my attention was their Kale mask for clarifying, healing and toning the skin. Then and there, I decided to do a spin-off mask of the same till I get my hands on the original.
Best part of this entire story is that it’s working for my otherwise stubborn skin. So here we go making our own – Blemish Healing, Skin Brightening Face Mask.
Brown and Coconut’s Kale Mask:
Ingredients of Brown and Coconut’s Kale Mask:
Montmorillonite (French Green Clay), Brassica Oleracea (Kale), Aloysia Citriodora (Lemon Verbena) Powder, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flowers, Azadirachta Indica (Neem Leaf) Powder, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme Leaf)
Here, I believe Honeysuckle flowers were added for the sake of fragrance.
And even Lemon verbena powder was used for its aromatic scent. However, the Brown and Coconut site says Lemon verbena can diminish puffiness while clearing and toning the skin. Nevertheless, I couldn’t find enough literature supporting the claim.
So, I gave these two a miss in my spin-off version.
My Spin-off Version- Blemish healing, Skin Brightening Face Mask:
The cornerstone of this mask- French Green Clay
French Green Clay differs from Bentonite clay in having higher amounts of iron oxides along with decomposed kelp seaweed.
Combination of decomposed plant material with iron oxides gives the clay a beautiful pleasant green color with added skin soothing properties.
Not to mentions its mineral content: Montmorillonite, as well as dolomite, magnesium, calcium, potassium, manganese, phosphorus, zinc, aluminum, silicon, copper, selenium, and cobalt.
The minerals highlighted in bold hold a prime place in skin and hair care. Also, the mineral content makes it perfect clay for a mineral bath relieving stress and insomnia.
For mineral bath all you have to do is prepare a mix of clay and sea salts then add it to your hot bath. Soak in bath for 15-20 minutes.
How does French Green Clay work for skin concerns?
It raises your skin’s activity by stimulating it. As a matter of fact, you can feel this effect. You’ll feel your skin has become warmer after you rinse off the clay.
This skin stimulation by French green Clay encourages the natural exfoliation of skin.
Furthermore, the chemical structure of clay is such that it can hold large amounts of water. Therefore, the drying of clay shrinks the enlarged pores and helps reduce excess oil aka sebum production.
Where to buy French Green Clay:
I bought mine from a brand named Vedenic Ayurveda. You can check here
Purple Cabbage also known as Red Cabbage: Brassica oleracea
In my version of mask, I substituted Kale with its closest relative, purple cabbage😇.
Both Kale and Purple Cabbage have more or less same vitamin content. So, I didn’t feel the need to look for Kale which by the way is difficult to find in Indian markets.
The only probable difference could be the final color of the mask. Using kale will enhance the beautiful rich green color of French green Clay.
Besides, Purple Cabbage is not only rich source of Vitamin A but also Vitamin C which helps in healing blemishes and acne scars. Therefore, even if you skip your face masks routine don’t forget to have raw Purple Cabbage as salad.
I planned this mask last month itself but alas, the cabbage, I sun dried got soaked under unexpected rain. I decided to leave this and work on other project but mom chided me for being so dramatic 😛
Lesson learned: Stop complaining about things which are not under your control and start again without wasting time over spilled milk
Anyways, I started again and surprisingly even the weather turned hot and dry and my herbs dried within no time.
Freshly chopped purple Cabbage for mask. Don’t forget to have it in your salad for added benefits
Sun Dried Purple Cabbage
Beautiful Sun dried Cabbage Powder
Azadirachta Indica (Neem Leaf) Powder:
Neem leaf, flowers, barks every part of this tree has one or other anti bacterial, anti protozoa, anti viral, anti-inflammatory properties.
In this Blemish healing mask, the Neem leaf powder serves to reduce skin redness due to active acne as well as treats active acne.
In India you’ll find Neem and its products throughout the year. But, if you wish to make your own Neem leaf powder, the best season to collect leaves is summer.
I collected Neem leaves, sundried and powdered them in summer itself. So, the powder came handy for making this mask.
But, if you wish to buy you’ll find innumerable sellers. One of the best: here
Thymus Vulgaris – Thyme leaf Powder:
Thyme serves to act as anti-oxidant. It even helps to reverse the sun damaged skin.
You can make your own or place an order from Amazon. Check here
Blemish Healing, Skin Brightening Face Mask – Works for Acne, Open pores and Blackheads
Blemishes, acne scars, large pores and black heads all these skin problems needs a mask infused with ingredients that addresses each concern without any breakouts. Blemish Healing Mask inspired from Brown and Coconut's Kale mask has goodness of all the essential ingredients.
Ingredients
- 1 tbsp French Green Clay
- 1 tsp lemon juice
- 1 tsp Purple Cabbage powder
- 1/2 tsp Neem leaf powder
- 1/4 tsp Thyme leaf powder
Instructions
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French Green Clay has a pH of 7.75. Our skin has a pH in the range of 4.5 to 5.5. When you use alkaline products either it be masks, soaps or non-pH balanced face washes the skin's acid mantle disrupts. So, you need to add an acidic substance such as lemon or apple cider vinegar to neutralize and bring the pH to 5. In my mask I have used lemon. Lemon juice has a pH of 2 and therefore you don't require more than 1 tsp for neutralizing 1 tbsp of French Green Clay.
To know more on balancing skin pH - Why maintain your Skin pH – The often Neglected part in Skin Care (Unravel Few Amazing Insights)
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In general, you'll notice bubbles when acid reacts with alkali. However, with French Green clay you'll observe slight sizzling. And with Bentonite and Aztech Indian healing clays, which are more basic the bubbles formed are more prominent.
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Then, add other ingredients one after one and thoroughly mix them up.
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Because, the clay is wet you'll get a lumpy mix. So sun dry it for a free flowing powder. You can even store it after sun drying for later use.
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While using add sufficient water depending on the consistency you prefer.
How to use this mask for black heads:
Prior to using this mask, use a Salicylic acid containing toner or Stridex pads such as check here
Then after 20-30 minutes apply the mask, Let it dry and then wipe off the mask with a wash cloth. Then rinse with water.
Don’t forget to apply your moisturizer after pat drying your face.
Reminders for sensitive skin: (Applies even to all skin types)
As, I mentioned above the chemical structure of Montmorillonite is such that it can hold great amounts of water. So when you leave the mask to dry on your skin, the moisture from your skin too is lost along with the water adsorbed by the clay.
You get the tight feeling of skin after washing your face. Therefore, don’t wait till the mask fully dries. You can wipe it off when it is 65-70% dry.
If you feel excessive tingling rinse if off immediately.
Don’t follow up with lemon juice or any other harsh “natural ingredients” for astringent effect. The mask itself is enough for toning your skin. All you need is to moisturize your skin.
Before you leave, would you like to try a skin quiz to understand your skin better?👇
