Tired of Skincare Products Giving You Temporary Results? Master how to fix it…
How often does your holy grail skincare product finds its place in a stash even though you were vouching by it just weeks ago?
This happens even with skincare products formulated with effective ingredients present in clinically proven concentrations- you start feeling the results have reached a stagnant point.
Furthermore, the results with your skincare product seem temporary.
Much worse scenario – the skincare product you once vouched for and never got tired of writing reviews over it seems no longer for your skin type and concerns.
Earlier even I used to be highly impatient with skincare products and pretty quick to switch to new ones displayed in beauty counters.
Ever since the science of skincare became my passion, my approach towards skincare products giving temporary results changed.
To understand why skincare products give temporary results let’s first delve into science of skincare.
Before you use any skincare product, you need to equip yourself with an understanding of your skin and correlate the product’s role in your skincare.
Therefore, here’s something very important you should know about your skin:
Solid form of our skin lipids is what protects skin from losing its moisture content. Serums and even moisturizers we use have liquids (solvents) that cause fluidity in solid oily layer of skin. (lipid layer)
This temporarily induced fluidity helps the actives present in serums and, moisturizers to enter the skin to show their activity rather than staying on the top of skin.
Skin Actives are ingredients that show activity on skin: Exfoliating acids(lactic acid, salicyclic acid, glycolic acid, madelic acid), Niacinamide, Retinols and, Extracts
As much as I love actives showing their action on the skin, I am wary of the cons. The biggest con that’s likely to happen is that our favorite serum or moisturizer stops working with time.
The skincare product for which you have spend thousands of bucks makes you feel that you have wasted your money.
The reason why even thoughtfully formulated skincare products stop showing results: The loss of Ceramides.
The loss of Ceramides increases moisture loss. And a dehydrated skin either turns very sensitive to actives or stops responding to them.
Sensitivity to actives triggers inflammatory responses such as acne, pesky spots or red blotches
Why specifically ceramides?
Making of ceramides by skin needs proper balanced skin pH. When skin pH falters the recovery of ceramides is also stalled. Furthermore, the skin is able to recover Ceramides only after gaining back its lost cholesterol and other fatty acids.
In simple words, you need to support and assist skin in gaining back its lost Ceramides.
How to gain back lost Ceramides from Skin:
Applying skincare products that have ingredients that resemble skin lipids help in replenishing the skin.
The google’s top picks for getting the goodness of ceramides and skin lipds are:
CERAVE’s PM Face Moisturizer for Nighttime Use
Cerave’s Ultra-Light Face Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30
FIRST AID BEAUTY Ultra Repair Cream
The downside of using moisturizers having ceramides and cholesterol:
But, the problem with ceramide and cholesterol containing moisturizers is that they are aimed at dry skin people with little or no-breakout issues.
Therefore, you tend to find more than 1 pore clogging ingredient within the list.
For instances, the Glyceryl Stearate SE found 3rd in ingredients list of Cerave’s Ultra-Light Face Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 is a potential comedogenic ingredient. (Pore clogging)
You can check the number of comedogenic ingredients in each of the above three moisturizers on this site: http://www.cosdna.com
Not just pore clogging but they also feel heavy on the skin making them highly unsuitable for people living in hot&humid areas and also to those with normal-oily skintype.
How to meet the needs of skin for Cermides during Acne treatments:
Your skin needs ceramides if you are using acne treatments that dry out your skin. In such cases, you can opt for one of the above three ceramide containing light weight moisturizers provided you make sure the ingredients’ list suits your skin type.
In case you fear increased greasiness or breakouts with moisturizers having cholesterol and ceramides then below mentioned are two ways which works for even oily skin beauties.
Not just oily but basically any skin type that uses serums and other skincare products.
- Home Remedy
- Make your skin replenish its Ceramide stores by applying this magic essence (scroll down to read)
1)Home Remedy: Although this simple DIY was written for winter acne remedy, it helps in making your skincare products work again for your skin.
2) Replenish your skin’s Ceramides by applying this magic essence:
I formulated this magic essence in a way that each and every ingredient present in it caters to the skin’s needs. Here, I present to you the magic essence – Beauty Spring’s Skin luminous Gel Essence– that’s going to naturally boost your skin’s Ceramides content.
My best selling Handcrafted Gel Essence devoid of silicones and oils. Customized for reviving dull skin
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): Beauty Spring’s Skin luminous Gel Essence has clinically proven effective concentration of Vitamin B3- 4%. It works
- supports and assists the skin to naturally produce ceramides (loss of ceramides in skin makes it dry and also acne prone)
- by enhancing the skin’s radiance
- reverses sun damage and tan
- reduces excess oil production by oil factories of skin
- calms active acne
- reduces the frequency of acne breakouts
Amino Sugars: This fabulous group of molecules derived from nature stimulates skin to produce its own moisturizing molecules- Hyaluronic acid. In our essence, we have combined amino sugars with Vitamin B3 to enhance the brightening and luminosity of the skin.
Beta-Glucan: It is a polysaccharide that protects the skin barrier, prevents water loss, increases moisture level of skin, protects and repair damaged skin, and increases collagen (skin protein) production for healing acne scars.
Sodium Hyaluronate: Hyaluronic acid is naturally present in our skin, joints and eyes. This molecule can absorb water and hydrate your skin. It helps in having a plump look. Also acts as anti oxidant. So using our essence infused with hyaluronic acid provides the skin the needed moisture boost.
Sea-Buckthorn Extract: Countless studies have proven the efficacy of sea buckthorn in balancing the skin’s oiliness. It also counteracts inflammation due to acne. Most importantly, it even aids in reducing pigmentation.
Royal Jelly: Royal Jelly is a honey bee secretion fed by worker bees to honey larvae and queen bees for nourishment. In skincare industry ,this royal jelly is considered as fountain of youth for skin.
Directions for Use: Cleanse your face with a pH balanced cleanser and apply the gel on slightly damp face if your skin is of dry skin type. For oily skin, apply on clean and dry face. Use twice or thrice a day.
Remember to cleanse and exfoliate your oily areas of your face before using the Gel Essence. This avoids any film forming due to the beta glucans present in the Gel Essence.
For consultation on skincare reach me out at lubna.khatoon@outlook.com
Pre-eclampsia
What is Pre-eclampsia?
As the name suggests Pre-eclampsia is a condition that pregnant women develop prior to eclampsia, if left undiagnosed it leads to eclampsia. Pre-eclampsia is marked by persistent hypertension during pregnancy, decreased blood platelets, and increased protein in urine. Women with pre-eclampsia who experience seizures are considered to have eclampsia.
Why regular checkups are mandatory?
Pre-eclampsia is one of the major causes of maternal mortality and morbidity, stillbirths and death of newborns in first week. It usually appears after 20th week of pregnancy in women who have not experienced high blood pressure before. However it mostly resolves by 6th postpartum week. Few women don’t show the symptoms and therefore pregnant women should get regular antenatal check ups.
What are the symptoms of Pre-eclampsia:
Consult your doctor if you experience severe headaches, dizziness, reduced or no urine output, rapid weight gain, excessive nausea and vomiting.
What are the risk factors for Pre-eclampsia:
- Women with PCOS can be at risk for pre-eclampsia
- It is more common in women who are pregnant for the first time and also if there is greater interval between pregnancies.
- Pre pregnancy obesity
- Women with chronic kidney disease, insulin-dependent diabetics
- Women who are pregnant via IVF
- Those having a family history of pre-eclampsia.
- Stress and environmental factors such as living at a high altitude.
However, there are no concrete measures to predict the risk of Pre-eclampsia in women who are pregnant for the first time with no previous history of hypertension.Hence early detection with periodic frequent checkups helps in managing pre-eclampsia.
Preventive measures:
- Appropriate dietary calcium intake in women deficient with calcium reduces the risk of developing preeclampsia. However it is to be noted that calcium supplementation doesn’t treat preeclampsia.
- According to WHO guidelines use of Vitamin D in prevention of preeclampsia has been rejected as there is no sufficient data. However pregnant women need to make sure they get the recommended amounts of vitamin D during pregnancy.
- Use of Vitamin C and E supplementation for prevention of preeclampsia has also been strongly refuted.
- There are no substantial evidences proving link between high salt intake and preeclampsia nevertheless healthy dietary practices are recommended which includes dietary salt restriction.
- Health of women prior to pregnancy is vital in preventing preeclampsia. Maintaining optimal pre-pregnancy health may reduce risk of developing pre-eclampsia
- It is a suggested idea for women planning pregnancy to lose excess weight and be as healthy as they can. If they have diabetes or hypertension then proper management is recommended.
Note: Women should first consult their doctor before taking any supplements, vitamins or medications.
Long term implications: Women diagnosed with preeclampsia during pregnancy are at higher risk of developing hypertension and cardiovascular diseases later in life. Hence personalized diet and exercises should not be neglected.
Spot Treatment for Cystic Acne
After several trials I finally discovered a herbal mix best suitable as spot treatment for painful Cystic acne. Here are the ingredients.
Firstly you need is Curry leaves. Take few curry leaves, dry them under sunlight for 3-4 days. Then grind the dried leaves into fine powder. Curry leaves are infused with terpenes that have anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties. If you have no free time to dry the leaves or if there is no easy availability of curry leaves in your country then you can purchase here – Curry leaves
Secondly you need is turmeric powder. Curcumin present in turmeric properties is essential for healing and tissue regeneration.
Curry leaves with turmeric and jojoba oil for preparing herbal mix to treat acne
Jojoba Oil Jojoba Oil Cold pressed : The third ingredient is Jojoba Oil. This oil resembles sebum produced in the skin by the sebum glands. Eicosenoic acid present in Jojoba Oil is non-comedogenic (does not block the skin’s pores), it can be readily absorbed by the skin, and it balances the oil in the skin, making it less oily. However, there are other options that can be used in place of jojoba oil and I have mentioned them in my post Oils for skin.
Procedure to make the herbal mix:
Take 1 table spoon ground Curry leaves powder and 1 tea spoon turmeric powder. Mix them. Add Jojoba oil to this mixture. By adding oil to the powder mix, oil soluble constituents’ dissolves into the oil. Now add water to this wet powder mix and mix well so that a thick paste is formed.
Use: Use this paste all over the acne prone areas as often as possible. Don’t forget to apply aloe –vera gel after rinsing the paste off.
Alternative: Himalaya Herbals Acne-n-Pimple Cream
If you don’t have free time to spend in making this herbal mix, then you can try using Himalaya acne and Pimple cream. Ingredients’ list is pretty intriguing. Of all the 5 ingredients present I am aware of only Aloe-vera (kumari). Rest of the list comprises of Shalamli, Nirgundi, Masura and Saurashtri. I surfed literature to gather information on these herbs. And I found each and every herb having wide range of benefits to the skin.
Review: I have very sensitive nose and thus refrains me from using readily available OTC acne creams. But surprisingly, this acne cream by Himalaya has pleasant odour. The texture of cream is very smooth but it doesn’t easily blends into the skin and so it is better to use it at night times. I have been applying on painful cystic acne on my forehead. Within 2 days my acne dried up and after 4-5 days I realized they were no more any cystic acne on my forehead. For acne scars it doesn’t really work immediately but it does lighten up the dark spots.
Would like to mention that either the paste or the cream offers only a temporary solution. More so, suitable for spot treatment.
Essential Oils
Essential Oils are complex mixtures of volatile substances bio synthesized by aromatic Plants and also animals (civet, musk etc) and microorganisms. These volatile substances are chemically terpenoid or non-terpenoid origin existing in form of esters,acids,alcohols, aldehydes, Ketones, Sulphides, amines. They are not to be confused with Fixed oils or fatty oils which are naturally occurring mixture of lipids
| Essential oils are extracted from the flowers, seeds, leaves, stems, bark, trunk and roots of various plants. There are three basic ways for extracting essential oils. 1)Cold pressed 2) Steam Distillation 3)Solvent extraction |
| Most of the essential oils marketed for skin and hair care are extracted by steam distillation and cold pressing. Oils extracted by solvent are usually of poor quality unless otherwise the method opted is Super critical Carbon dioxide extraction. The oils obtained by this method are of highest purity and expensive compared to those extracted by cold pressing and steam distillation. |
Essential oil benefits come from their antioxidant, antimicrobial ,anti-inflammatory and anti-depressant properties present in the active constituent of respective oils.
Below are few uses of essential oils:
Peppermint oil to feel more alert
Lavender, chamomile, and neroli to ease stress
Eucalyptus to stop sniffles and for sinusitis
Cedarwood oil for anti-inflammatory properties
Sandalwood oil as astringent, emollient, and has mild sedative effects
How to Use?
Steam inhalations: Place 3-7 drops of essential oil into boiling water. Some essential oils to consider include: Eucalyptus , Thyme , Lemon (Citrus limon), Peppermint. This is very effective for sinusitis ,respiratory infections, headaches.
- *Caution:prolonged inhalation of concentrated essential oils can cause headaches, vertigo, dizziness, nausea, and lethargy.
Aromatic baths: The oils that are generally considered mild and safe for bath are Lavender, rose, Geranium, Sandalwood Oil, Frankincense , Eucalyptus. Aromatic baths are excellent for skin problems, circulatory problems, respiratory symptoms, stress and nervous tension, insomnia, muscular, and menstrual pains.
Body Massage: Essential oils are very powerful, so start low and go slow. They are to be diluted before use. Usually a 2% dilution is preferred. A good rule of thumb when seeking to make a 2% dilution is to add 12 drops of essential oil to each fl. ounce (30 ml) of cold pressed carrier oil, lotion, vegetable butter or other natural lipid/moisturizer . Excessive use of essential oils may increase the risk for adverse reactions.
In my next Post I’l be reviewing the essential oils i have been using for quite sometime.
To read about Lavender Essential Oil (check the hyperlink)
Parabens…
Parabens are the chemical compounds used in cosmetics as preservatives. They are the esters of para benzoic acid possessing wide spectrum antimicrobial activity although most effective against yeast and moulds. In spite of concerns over them causing contact dermatitis their use as preservatives became ubiquitous in cosmetic and dermatological products.
Actual concerns over their usage started after study conducted in 2004 stated that Parabens mimic estrogen activity and also its findings in malignant breast cancer tissues. Nevertheless several exhaustive research conducted there after could not attribute Parabens as carcinogens. There by ruling out the possibility for imposing a ban on Paraben usage.
Recent developments:
Since the past decade consumer demand for paraben free cosmetics is on rise. And with the latest EU Cosmetics Regulations coming under force it is sure to have a great boost to paraben free cosmetics. The latest regulation limits the maximum concentration of Propylparaben and Butylparaben, from currently allowed limit of 0.4% when used individually and 0.8% when mixed with other esters, to 0.14%, when used individually or together.
Go Organic…
Most of us use makeup cosmetics on regular basis. Needless to say it is more or less like having a whole lot of chemicals on our skin at as stretch of 8-9 hrs. But we can do in the least is take necessary care with respect to our Skin and Personal care products.
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What to do and to what extent we can?
The first thought that comes to my mind when i hear “Go organic..” is Paraben free products. Though I was aware of Paraben myths and facts I never cared to buy Paraben free cosmetics with fear of using products which may have substituted paraben with substandard preservatives .But ever since I read about the recently imposed regulations by EU commission I started having second thoughts.Though it is not completely possible to replace all the cosmetic products we use often with paraben free we can still make some efforts to be on safer side as much as we can especially for personal care products. So here we go and lets do this
- The first step to be taken immediately is to check your washroom closet and discard all deodorants and antiperspirants that have Paraben as its preservatives. And replace it with home made Essential oil deodorants. In choosing your own essential oils, make sure to use oils that are mild and non irritant to the skin as the underarm is a sensitive area. Suggestions include Lavender, Geranium, RoseHip, Sandalwood, Tea Tree, Ylang Ylang, Patchouli and Texas Cedarwood.
Make your own spray deodorant by combining 20 drops of essential oil for every 4 ounces of distilled water. Place the mixture in a spray bottle, gently shake it and apply it as necessary. Alternatively, if you also want to help absorb wetness, combine 10 drops of essential oil in a mixture of 4 tablespoons of coconut or jojoba oil, 4 tablespoons of baking soda and 4 tablespoons of cornstarch. Store the concoction in your fridge and apply it to your clean skin as needed
Not all companies sell pure biodegradable compounds as they claim . “Organic” ingredients are supposed to be plant-sourced ingredients that are cultivated without the use of synthetic chemicals, irradiation, or pesticides. However, given the lack of regulations, it is always a question as to whether or not these products actually are made according to the claims about their formulations .Adding to the confusion is the fact that even though lots of cosmetic products actually do contain organic ingredients, they also may contain synthetic ingredients, so the term “Organic” doesn’t apply to the entire formula.
READ INGREDIENT LABELS because the ingredient list on the back of products cannot deceive you – as the sellers legally HAVE TO list each and every ingredient in their product. Don’t go by the advertising saying “natural” or “organic”, go by the ingredients.
Here are a few companies that really do back up their claims of having “natural” or “organic” products and contain no synthetic chemicals of any kind.
-Aubrey Organics ( http://www.aubrey-organics.com )
-Terressentials ( http://www.terressentials.com )
-Suki ( http://www.sukisnaturals.com )
